East Africa - Beyond the Migration
Regardless of your exposure to Africa travel, you’ll be hard pressed to find someone who hasn’t at least heard mention of the Serengeti or Masai Mara, and The Great Migration has its own notoriety. Following the inertia of popularity, many feel that they need to experience the Great Migration to do the safari justice without knowing what it is and what it will be like. Not to diminish the magic of encountering one of the largest mammal migrations in the world, but understanding what else East Africa has to offer empowers the traveler to design for their interests, make creative combinations, and enjoy enriching experiences with fewer pitfalls of peak season demand. Season to season, we’ll take you through the variety of experiences available within East Africa so you can decide what matters most to your adventure.
Geography of East Africa
When we talk about travel in East Africa, we are focusing on the countries of Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Rwanda—an area that collectively is nearly 700,000 square miles. While the region is very well connected for tourism, it’s still a huge and diverse region to explore and warrants selecting a few of the many wonderful places to ensure you are careful with pace and transit.
What Is the Great Migration?
The Serengeti-Mara Ecosystem is a vast, fertile grassland of ancient, deposited ash from the Great Rift Valley volcanic peaks. It harbors the largest concentration of megafauna on the planet, which includes over a million wildebeest, zebra, and gazelle which form the Great Migration. The herds are so massive that they must remain on the move constantly in search of fresh grazing, creating a circular path from the Southern Serengeti into the Masai Mara and back again throughout the year. The population has diminished by 90% since the 1990’s due to climate change and human development, but the numbers are still very impressive. It is possible to observe the herds year-round depending on your location. There are two peak seasons for the Great Migration: the calving season and the river crossing season. We will go into more detail about the benefits and expectations as well as alternative or additional experiences available throughout the year.
The Calving Season: December to March
About The Migration: This is the time of year when landscapes are verdant and big cats are in action. Starting in January, wildebeest are very pregnant and preparing to give birth. Like many ungulates, their births are synchronized to ensure each calf has the highest chances of surviving to adulthood. Tanzania’s Ndutu region of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area at the border of the Southern Serengeti is where hundreds of thousands of calves are born within a three-week period, peaking in February. This is an amazing time to observe nature’s full circle. Traveling in March, while higher chance of rain than February, offers some good deals, a respite from crowds, and all but guarantees you the chance to encounter newborn calves in Tanzania. Outside the holidays, December and January offer some of the best balance for solitude and high-quality wildlife viewing across Tanzania and Kenya albeit with more chance that the herds could be spread out. In general, this time of year offers more opportunities to experience the herds without hitting the crowds of the July-August river crossing season and great experiences for general wildlife viewing.
Beyond the Migration: If you wish to explore vast grasslands filled with resident wildlife, flowing rivers, a chorus of birdsong, wooded forests and towering mountains, you have plenty to explore. Kenya’s Masai Mara and the surrounding private conservancies offer lovely wildlife viewing this time of year with a little breathing room. This can be a great time of year for couples to enjoy some solitude and a higher chance that your safari vehicle won’t be full, offering a little more flexibility and a great honeymoon season. In general, there is a chance of rain from December through February with increasing chances towards March. Not including the holidays, there are also very good deals.
Along the Swahili Coast, you’ll find that the weather is hot and humid, but the water temperatures and visibility are great. The Spice Island of Zanzibar has fascinating heritage sites, snorkeling, turtle sanctuaries, forests filled with black and white colobus monkeys, and white sand beaches, and azure waters scattered with traditional dhow sailing boats. This is the peak season to swim with whale sharks from Mafia Island which also offers great diving. On Pemba Island, you’ll find a marine reserve with massive coral reef that through years of careful conservation has hit a biodiversity tipping point with an explosion of life
Primates and Birds! Connecting to Uganda and Rwanda is easy where you can set out on gorilla treks from Volcanoes National Park, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, and Mgahinga National Park. We can help select the region that is best for your ability level and interests. Yes, there’s a chance of rain throughout this season, but it isn’t the peak rainy season. For travelers who love bird life, there is an astounding array to be found from Rwanda’s orchid and chimpanzee-filled Nyungwe Forest or the Big Five Akagera National Park. From Uganda’s Mwamba Wetland and Murchison Falls, you can set out in boats in search of the shoebill stork. Explore the rolling tea plantations and volcanic lakes outside of Kibale National Park, famous for its chimpanzee trekking, and explore for Albertine Rift endemic bird species.
The Rainy Season: April to May
This is considered the main rainy season in East Africa. While you may still get some sunny days, the grass is tall which can interfere with wildlife observations in the national parks and water accessibility allows wildlife to spread out. For those looking for lowest prices of the season and the least crowds, this is a good time of year to explore with a private guide, flexibility, and a sense of adventure. While migration-focused mobile camps are closed this time of year, permanent safari lodges across East Africa remain open at a fraction of the cost.
Kusini Winds and the Rut: June
About the Migration: With improving weather and male wildebeest asserting their dominance in flamboyant displays for mating rights, June is a “shoulder” season month with a lot of appeal. The herds are on the move through the Central Serengeti, making their way through the western Grumeti and Central Seronera wherever the grazing takes them as they prepare for the journey north. Females are in oestrus, which studies show synchronizes from the exposure to male rutting vocalizations. Dominant males will be busy posing, displaying their strength and fending off any weaker males from their harem. It’s quite entertaining! Since it isn’t quite peak season yet, you can still find good specials this time of year, such as half price honeymoons and long stay specials.
Beyond the Migration
This is a popular month for families on summer break due to the cost savings relative to July and August. After the main rainy months, grass can be tall, but the conservancies outside of the national parks tend to be a great option for reducing crowds and good game viewing. In Kenya’s northern conservancies, the landscape becomes increasingly arid with less wildlife density but fascinating species. In Laikipia, you’ll have optimal chances to encounter the elusive African wild dog. Even without that goal, the unique subspecies and activity variety available make the regions well worth a visit. Fancy a camel trek or a day with the Samburu communities? June is a popular time to get out of the vehicle and explore in search of culture, hiking opportunities from day hikes to peak summits. In Tanzania, the Ngorongoro Crater can be very foggy in the mornings, offering a unique mood and chilly nights. Exploring the local communities in the surrounding area offers opportunity to learn about the Maasai, Dorobo, and one of the last remaining hunter-gatherer communities in the world, the Hadzabe.
Mid-June is the start to the Kusini Winds, which are south-to-north running parallel to the Swahili Coast. This generally lasts through August and can make for choppier waters for scuba diving and snorkeling, however it’s a draw for kite surfing. June is the start of the season for Southern Tanzania, a region vastly different than the Serengeti of Northern Tanzania with the tropical palms of the Selous (renamed Nyere National Park after Tanzania’s founding father) where you can enjoy boat safaris, the incredible biodiversity of Ruaha, and chimpanzee-haven coastline of Lake Tanganyika. Safari in Rwanda and Uganda is improving as the dry season draws wildlife to water sources and primate viewing is very reliable.
Primates, Pachyderms, and Peak Summits: July to August:
About the Migration: The River Crossing Season starts in earnest in July with peak generally late July through August. This is a time of year when a million thundering herbivores risk life and limb to cross the tumultuous waters of the Mara River. The herds follow veteran wildebeest to specific crossing points, timidly waiting for the courage and the group inertia to initiate the dangerous crossing. Crocodiles, drowning, and clever big cats awaiting their resurface are all the risks they must take to follow the path to fresh grazing. Wildebeest have an uncanny ability to follow the rains and prospects of new grass, so while this event is guaranteed to happen annually, there is no guarantee to the start, end, and crossing frequency which is dependent on weather. If you are curious to witness this thrilling, intense spectacle you must be prepared to show up with a great deal of patience for the chance to be rewarded by a potentially emotionally charged experience. It is not uncommon to wait for hours and hours for the crossing to commence. It’s popularity creates over tourism strain, and vehicle numbers are staggering. So, you must also be prepared to share, be selective about your guides, your location, and understand that responsible quality comes at a high travel cost.
Beyond the Migration: There are many travelers who find this unpalatable, whether because of the crowds, the cost, or the possibility of witnessing animals suffering. Fortunately, this is a time of year when the options are endless, and you can venture even further off the beaten path.
- Enjoy a multi-course meal at an alfresco rooftop restaurant in the heart of Stone Town as the call to prayer echoes across the sunset. Explore the history of the spice trade, the UNESCO heritage sites, and relax on the white sand beaches.
- Explore Tanzania’s southern circuit where you can boat, hike, game drive, night drive, and chimp trek from a combination of parks. Go out on safari in regions known for the highest numbers of lions and wild dog in Africa.
- Spot relaxed chimpanzees in Mahale National Park when food is more plentiful and easier to access
- Summit Mt. Kilimanjaro or Mt. Meru when hiking conditions are most favorable or just enjoy the views of the mountain peaks when the skies are most likely to be clear, perhaps with a massive “tusker” elephant in the foreground in Amboseli National Park.
- Park your camera at a waterhole when wildlife is most frequent
- Set out on multi day hiking expeditions accompanied by camel support and Samburu guides.
- Elephants herds can be found in large groups in Tarangire National Park which also has gorgeous rolling landscapes dotted with towering baobab trees. Travelers can visit the Samburu-managed Reteti Elephant Sanctuary in Kenya’s northern rangelands which houses baby elephants until they can be released back into the wild.
- Take a scenic helicopter flight across the vastness of Northern Kenya for a day trip to the remote Lake Turkana.
- Trek across Bwindi Impenetrable Forest between gorilla zones to combine gorilla treks with a fully immersive forest adventure
- Safari is at its most productive across Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Rwanda
Bird Migrations and Post Labor Day Peak: September to October
About the Migration: Many travelers enjoy traveling after the Labor Day holiday to avoid the summer surge, and fortunately wildlife viewing is still very good. The odds of observing the herds are better from the Tanzania side as they are moving south this time of year with crossings back into Tanzania. The Mara River will be lower, making it more likely to be able to cross between Kogatende and the Lamai Wedge.
Beyond the Migration: By this time of year, it’s already getting very hot in southern Tanzania and Northern Kenya, so while the camps are still open and wildlife viewing still reliable it comes with a high temperature. October is the start of the migration for many bird species from Europe and Northern Africa, offering fabulous birding from bee eaters and rollers in Uganda all the way to the seabirds in the Seychelles.
Short Rains and Mating Plumage: November
About the Migration: Most of the migration herds can be found swirling through Tanzania’s Central Serengeti with a small chance to witness late season river crossings. Mobile migration camps disassemble at the end of October to be relocated to the southern Serengeti by the start of December.
Beyond the Migration: November is a short rainy season that shouldn’t deter travel to East Africa. Value for quality is good for wildlife viewing, photographic opportunities are lovely, and variety is abundant from cultural festivals such as the Dhow Festival on Lamu Island to excellent birdlife. You may find that priority wildlife sightings, such as a big male lion, are more likely to have all to yourself. Many of the camps in northern Kenya close for the season. Scuba diving and exploring the Swahili Coast are great this time of year.
Specializing in tailored itineraries designed around you, the Great Expeditions Travel team can help plan, book and take care of all the details to include these experiences (and others) into your unique itinerary.
Please click here for a Sample Itinerary to Tanzania
