Patagonia - Beyond the “W”
There is a saying in Patagonia: “Quien se apura en la Patagonia, pierde el tiempo,” meaning, “whoever rushes in Patagonia, wastes time.” In adventure travel, there is a great pressure to experience bucket list hotspots, the irony being that when you focus so strongly on a singular highlight, you might miss the opportunity to experience the soul of the destination and the lessons it can teach you. Spanning a massive, protected landscape between Chile and Argentina at the bottom of the South American Continent, most travel to Patagonia for the iconic hiking trails through Torres Del Paine National Park, perhaps continuing across the border to Los Glaciares in Argentina for the highlight reel and nearly all within a three-month window—traffic which places great pressure on the fragile landscape.
The soul of Patagonia reveals itself in the ruggedly untamed paths and remote reaches, and while the iconic highlights are worthy of their notoriety, we suggest a balance with room to explore deeper. While the famous “W” trek, which includes trails that connect Lago Grey, the French Valley, and up to base of Los Torres within Torres del Paine National Park is a world class experience, its popularity requires a tolerance for tourism traffic that for some detracts from the purpose of being in nature and certainly requires responsible choices for operators. Fortunately, the W is the tip of the Patagonian Iceberg for what this region has to offer. Breathtaking landscapes, endless adventures, authentic culture, and outstanding gastronomy are all on the menu. Here are a few ways to explore Torres del Paine and the greater Patagonian region beyond the “W”:
Glacier Explorations
The massive glacier field on the western side of Torres del Paine National Park makes up the Southern Icefield with 40+ glaciers. With stunning views of Los Cuernos peaks, Lago Grey offers a variety of ways to experience the area and view Grey Glacier. Board a scenic cruise for up close views of Grey Glacier, perhaps setting out on a half day glacier trek. Don a dry suit and jump in a tandem kayak to paddle through icebergs and into the scenic Serrano River. There are options to enjoy for all abilities. For getting further afield, there are multi-day kayaking adventures that connect Lago Grey with Serrano and Tyndall or from a base in the west of the park, set out on daily excursions.
Puma Drama
Torres del Paine is arguably the best spot in the world to encounter pumas in the wild, an experience that will still take a great deal of persistence and luck. Predator-livestock conflict has historically plagued the population, but efforts between conservationists and ranchers are stamping a place for pumas, supported by tourism demand. It’s important to explain that sightings are far from guaranteed, but fortunately, the region is a wonderland for wildlife lovers and photographers well beyond the charismatic big cats. With the knowledge of local guides and tracker teams, you can set out on foot into the trail network in the rolling pampas grassland favored by guanacos, and consequently pumas. The territories span across the eastern park into private estancias where visitors can set out on wildlife safari with magnificent views of Los Torres in the distance. While exploring, you’ll take in the incredible scenery, learn the history of the indigenous peoples of Patagonia, and encounter a variety of interesting species, particularly birdlife.
Wine, Dine, and Soak in the Scenery
From the tradition of mate tea and roast lamb to the perfect pisco sour and award-winning wines, Chile and Argentina take food and beverage very seriously. While an exploration of the Casablanca and Mendoza wine regions is a magnificent addition to the heart of Patagonia, you don’t have to leave to indulge in fine dining. Spend your days exploring the trails, lakes, landscapes, and wildlife, return to a luxurious private hot tub overlooking the Los Cuernos peaks, and rejoice in a multi-course culinary experience by local Chilean chefs paired with the best of Chilean wine. Spend a day on horseback on a working estancia with an asado feast of lamb cooked over an open wood fire.
Alternative Hikes
Lodge-based day trips provide access to daily excursions. You will sacrifice the early morning access to the start of the popular hiking trails but gain a variety of options and combinations. Take in the views from Ferrier Lookout or the guide-required Zapata Lookout over Pingo Lake on the western side of the park. Enjoy scenic drives and the chance to combine activities such as kayaking on Lago Grey, a ferry across Lake Pehoe to reach the start of the French Valley, perhaps traveling in the shoulder season to limit the traffic. For a less used trail, wander through the remains of lenga forest that surrounds Skotsburg Lake, keeping an eye out for Austral pygmy owl as you soak in the mountain views. On the eastern side of the park, the pampas opens with distant rock outcroppings that protect ancient petroglyphs, signs of preferred hunting locations for the original inhabitants of Patagonia.
End of the World in Tierra del Fuego
Torres del Paine sits in Southern Patagonia within reach of the gateway to Tierra del Fuego, also known as the End of the World. This is a unique landscape surrounded by mountains, glaciers, lenga and coihue forests, and dramatic, marine-rich coastline. From the shores of Punta Arenas, you can board a ship to visit Magellanic penguins, kayak amongst humpback whales, visit elephant seal colonies, watch for sea lions, petrels, cormorants, southern dolphins, and more. Venture deep into the remote wilderness for guided hiking with intimate and comfortable land or boat-based lodging.
Cultural Heritage
Estancia stays offer a unique opportunity to get involved in ranch life, learn about the colonial history of Patagonia and contribute to preserving this rich heritage. Immerse in gaucho life, riding horses through the Patagonian steppe, socializing around an open fire with a morning maté tea, and learning about the process of shearing sheep.
Explore the Small Towns
Quaint and walkable with a vibrant local community, the towns of Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas are worth exploration. You’ll be hard pressed to find a town with more well-fed and cuddly street dogs than Puerto Natales. For an invigorating beach day, wade into the shallow waters of the Gulf Almirante Montt at Puerto Natales, and if you’re there in September you might find some friends eager to join you during the annual Chapuzon de los Fiordos, meaning “dip in the fjords,” celebration.
Specializing in tailored itineraries designed around you, the Great Expeditions Travel team can help plan, book and take care of all the details to include these experiences (and others) into your unique itinerary.
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